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Author: aabrite

How to Paint Your Home’s Exterior in 19 Steps


Listed below is our exterior painting process and information business and home owners find helpful for preparing to get exterior painting work.

  • Kitchen Painting Before

    Before

  • Kitchen Painting After

    After

  • Interior Painting Step 1

    Step 1: Pressure Wash.

    Clients are frequently surprised at how aggressive our pressure washing is. This is how it is supposed to be. Loose paint is supposed to come off before the painting starts, not after the job is finished.

  • Exterior Painting Process

    Step 2: Trench.

    Most companies spray down to the dirt and then stop. When it rains, the soil moves and there is a line where the paint stops. We do the extra work and trench below grade to prevent this line. After painting we return the soil and rocks.

  • Exterior Painting Process

    Step 3: Scrape Loose Paint

    Pressure washing causes some building material to soak up water. When the wood dries out a small amount of paint will curl up on the edges. After the surface is dry we carefully scrape loose paint. One more step for high quality.

  • Exterior Painting Patch Cracks

    Step 4: Caulk Cracks or Fill them with paint.

    Stucco buildings will always get cracks over time, especially on the parapets and around the windows. We fill these cracks as well

  • Exterior Painting Patch Stucco

    Step 5: Spot Patch Stucco.

    It’s common for small spots of stucco to flake off. Corners have often been chipped by pets or kids with bicycles. We patch these spots for you.p>

  • Exterior Painting Cover Fans

    Step 6: Cover Ceiling Fans, Lights, Utility Meter Faces etc.

    If it shouldn’t be painted it should be covered. We will cover your items with plastic, paper and tape as required to protect them.

  • Exterior Painting Trim Bushes

    Step 7: Trim Back Bushes and Trees As Required

    We trim bushes and trees as needed to provide a quality paint job. Our preference is to have a landscaper do this prior to painting so you get exactly the cut you desire. If it’s not a concern then we take care of this for you. Some people prefer to leave the plants alone, and to paint around them. We are also agreeable to this if its your desire. Shown below is an example of “leave the plants alone”. In situations like this the ideal thing to do is to trim back the plant a reasonable amount, and then to paint around it.

  • Step 8: Remove Sun Screens

    Screens are removed and reinstalled on older homes with metal frame windows so the window frame can be painted. On newer homes the screens can be left in and covered with plastic since the aluminum window frames don’t get painted. If window sun screens are present and are sticking out, they will be removed prior to painting.

  • Exterior Painting Cover Doors

    Step 9: Put Plastic Sheeting on Windows and Doors.

    Our painters’ mantra: “If it doesn’t get painted it should be covered.”

  • Exterior Painting Spot Prime

    Step 10: Spot Prime as Required.

    We apply primer or premium self priming paint to exposed wood or stucco to give you a superior paint job.

  • Professional Exterior Painting Job

    Step 11: Paint Exterior Body and Fascia same or new color.

    We paint the body AND the fascia since a job is not complete until they are both painted.

  • Premium Exterior Paint Options

    Step 12: Premium Exterior Paint.

    It’s ironic that some contractors use cheap paint, because it is more difficult to use and much more abrasive to the spray equipment painters use. It’s false economy for both the painter and the client to use cheap paint. Premium paint applies faster and it goes on thicker, so there is less touch up. We both win–you get a better job and we are not frustrated with dripping paint and worn out machines.

  • Step 13: Application of 3 coats of Premium paint to exterior walls & eves.

    Walls and eves are typically painted end to end 3 times before we move to paint another wall. The first coat is sprayed onto the stucco & eves. The second coat is sprayed on stucco and eves, with the stucco area being back rolled as its sprayed.

  • Exterior Painting Backroll

    Step 14: Backroll.

    Backrolling is when paint is sprayed on with a sprayer and is rolled with a roller. During the process of backrolling, paint is pushed deeper into the stucco with the roller than it would be with a sprayer alone. It’s the equivalent of using your fingers to work shampoo deeply into thick hair. Typically the second coat is backrolled, but on really dry stucco, as in not painted in a long time, backrolling can’t be done until the third coat.

  • Step 15:Exterior fascia is painted two coats by hand.

    This helps us to work the paint into the small cracks in the wood (like back rolling) and lowers the chance of getting paint overspray on the roof.

  • Step 16: Fill & Paint any cracks which are still visible.

    Some stucco walls will have thousands of cracks on them. It’s common on jobs like these for some cracks to “appear” after a few coats of paint have been applied. The cracks were always there, we just could not see all of them. Technically there is no problem with filling them after paint has been applied, and then painting them again.

    Several times a year I get calls from homeowners who are concerned there are cracks showing after paint has been applied to their home, but before we are finished with the job. There will almost always be cracks which could not be seen prior to applying paint. These cracks can be caulked or filled after paint has been applied, and then painted over. This is a natural and expected part of the process. Paint and caulk are highly compatible and it does not matter if paint is put on before or after caulk is applied so long as the caulk is painted over before the job is completely finished.

    Stucco patching is the same as caulking in that some of the patch work will be done after paint is applied. It might be hard to imagine but it’s A LOT easier to see areas needing to be patched after they have been spray painted. The best example I can give is this: Think of an old car with dingy faded paint. This car has a few small dents on it. Now think of a shiny new car with two small dents. Would you notice the dents more on the old dingy car or the new shiny one? Answer – The shiny new car will show the dents more in the same way freshly painted stucco makes it easier for us to find the rest of the cracks and areas needing additional patch work.

  • Step 17: Professional Cleanup.

    We always clean up the job site.

  • Step 18: Leave touch up paint with the client.

    In the future, if a corner is nicked by a wheelbarrow or bicycle we want you to have some touch-up paint. On Caulking Cracks & Spot Patching Stucco.

  • All material and labor is included in our bids unless noted otherwise in writing.

  • We Provide Various Options.

    Jobs are bid “cafeteria-style” so clients can pick and choose what they want done and what they can skip to save money. For example, a standard Rita Ranch home with a swimming pool will be quoted with a base price for painting the stucco walls and trim of the house and then on separate line items will be the cost for the pool fence and the side gate. If you want the pool fence or side gate painted you know the price before we start. You get only what you want and are not required to pay for extras. Plus items can be added after we start, without renegotiating the price.

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Roof Ponding


Roof Ponding and What it Looks Like

What is Roof Ponding?

Roof ponding is when water gathers in an area of your roof and remains there longer than 48 hours. Roof ponding usually occurs when your rooftop doesn’t drain properly, allowing the water too pool and damage your roof coating.

How do I know if I have roof ponding?

Shown below are a multiple photos of ponding on roofs all over Tucson and southern Arizona.

  • Roof Ponding Example

    The building is beautiful to look at, but the roof is shaped like a soup bowl and holds alot of water. When it takes over a month for the pond to evaporate off of the roof after each rain, the coating might last as long as two years. If there was a steep pitch and no pond, this coating could last six years.

  • Roof Ponding Damage

    A close up of the damage to the roof on the Frank Lloyd Wright building caused by ponding water.

  • Large Roof Ponding

    A larger than usual pond on a local Tucson home. Two basic choices. Do a small amount of preventative maintenance on it once a year AND broom it off after big rains, or have it re-coated every couple of years. The right way to fix this is to lower the scuppers but that’s a pretty large project.

  • Roof Ponding in Middle of Roof

    Ponding in the middle of the roof.

  • Roof Stains from Ponding

    Its dry now, but the size of the stain indicates there is a pretty good sized pond on this roof when it rains.

  • Garage Roof Ponding

    The roof over a garage of a friend of mine. He has stairs going up to his roof and sweeps it off each time it rains. It’s held up this way for years because he does preventative maintenance on it.

  • Corner Roof Ponding

    Another larger than average pond.

  • Roof Ponding by Scupper

    And another pond.

  • Roof Ponding Example

    As you can probably guess from the photos, ponding is fairly common.

  • Scattered Ponding

    This one is more unusual. Lots and lots of small ponds. This is common on foam roofs and on a homes with shallow pitch and thin plywood on the roof. This coating will age faster than normal but not bad enough that I’d recommend a tear off and new roof.

  • Ponding Around Solar Panels

    More ponding. Luckily for the home owner this pond doesn’t end up under the solar heaters. If it did the shade would keep it wet longer and destroy the coating even faster.

  • Ponding Near Scuppers

    A little bigger than I’d like to see, but this size is remarkably common.

  • Roof Ponding Example

    Another pond. I’m running out of things to say.

  • Roof Ponding Example

    Finally one back in the acceptable range. By acceptable I mean I wouldn’t want it on my house but this wouldn’t stop me from telling my parents to buy a house like this

  • Roof Ponding Damage

    I probably have 200 pictures of ponds since I take pictures of a roof and then show the client. Here is the last one for now.

What should I do about my roof ponding?

If you notice roof ponding on your roof feel free to give us a call for a free inspection! If your roof needs to be repaired or replaced we’re happy to give you a free quote!

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The 6 Most Common Stucco Problems


Below is a guide outlining the five most common stucco problems you may see in your home! 

The most common stucco problems include: 

  1. Air Voids
  2. Caulk Scars
  3. Scaffold Lines
  4. Window and Corner Cracking
  5. Filled in Texture
  6. Stem Wall Was Stucco’d

Knowing about stucco defects will give you the ability to detect the flaws or “character marks,” similar to a jeweler when looking at a diamond.

The difference is that a magnifying glass is not needed to see the stucco flaws each time you come into or out of your home or office. For some, defects and variations are a source of irritation. We want prospective customers to be informed that all stucco looks different from various angles and the difficulty making a perfectly blended patch. This guide will show pictures and descriptions of the various types of exterior stucco and how the patches appear.

  • Stucco Problem Air Voids

    Stucco Air Voids

    Most common for air voids is sprayed on synthetic stucco. The key is to back-roll on a heavy coat of paint.

  • Stucco Calk Scars

    Stucco Caulk Scars

    We see this frequently. A homeowner or “painter”
    runs a bead of caulk on top of the stucco texture.
    We typically have to cut these out with a diamond
    saw.

  • Stucco Scaffold Lines

    Stucco Scaffold Lines

    Once you start looking for scaffold lines, they are more common than you would expect. No amount of paint is going to get this to go away. If this result is unacceptable, then the other option would be to re-stucco the side of the house.

  • Stucco Problems Cracked Corners

    Window & Corner Cracking

    Almost all homes have this. Cracks love to start in sharp corners. Fortunately, most of them can be repaired without too much trouble.

  • Stucco Filled in Texture

    Filled In Texture

    We don’t see this too often. There is so much paint
    on this stucco that the texture is starting to
    disappear.

  • Stem Wall Was Stucco’d

    It is where the stucco is applied down the wall, over the foundation, and all the way to the dirt. In my opinion, the foundation of the house should not have a stucco texture put on it since the walls and foundation expand and contract at different rates. Stucco doesn’t stretch; it cracks. Different parts of a building moving at different speeds will cause the stucco to crack where the two surfaces meet. Of the few homes I’ve seen with the stucco on the foundation, all were cracked. We can repair it, but it’s coming back. It’s just a question of how long.

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The Ultimate Guide to Elastomeric Roof Coatings


What is elastomeric roof coating?

Elastomeric roof coating is a synthetic rubber product that can be applied to residential or commercial roofs for the purpose of waterproofing and extending their service life. Elastomeric roof coatings are usually a white or a light beige color and are applied in liquid form with a roller, brush or sprayer. When dry, the coating acts as a solid membrane which reflects most sunlight and allows rainwater to flow off the roof. It’s likely the third most common roofing system behind tile and shingle.

What else is elastomeric roof coating called?

“Cool Coating” is a generic or slang term for elastomeric roof coating.

Is elastomeric roof coating the same as rubberized roof coating?

Cool Coating is a generic or slang term for elastomeric roof coating. There are other roofing systems using various forms of rubber (such as EPDM sheeting) which are vastly different from elastomeric rubber roofing systems.

What are the benefits of using an elastomeric roofing system?

The three primary benefits to a cool coated / elastomeric roof coating roof system are:

  1. Much lower summer surface temperatures than other kinds of roofs = lower air conditioner bills.
  2. Compared to tile and shingle, a coated system is quite a bit easier to work on, and it can be safely walked on when its hot or cold outside.
  3. Its less expensive to apply than most other roofing systems.

How does elastomeric roof coating / cool coating work?

Most roofs are finalized using some sort of system. Shingle, tile and elastomeric roofs all have several layers to them. An elastomeric roof coating system usually consists of a base layer. The most common base layers are tar or tar paper, rolled asphalt sheeting, or polyester fabric. On top of the base layers several coats of a liquid rubber coating (elastomeric / cool coat) is applied. The entire elastomeric / cool coat system is designed to keep water out while withstanding the sun, rain, wind and some snow. The coating is designed to flex enough to allow for a normal amount of movement of the wood within the ceiling.

Do elastomeric roofs work as advertised?

Yes and no. Advantages to cool coated roofs are ease of maintenance and lower initial installation costs than tile or shingle, and they reflect A LOT of sunlight. The disadvantages include more frequent maintenance, susceptibility to damage if there is ponding water, and a danger on some roofs of the drains becoming plugged from tree debris.

Do local elastomeric roof coating manufacturers have advantages over national box store coatings?

Definitely yes! Local or regional manufacturers can produce coatings that are formulated for the weather in the area. A good coating for a roof in the damp and overcast northwest US is going to be completely different than one for hot, mostly dry, and very sunny Tucson, Oro Valley, or Green Valley Arizona.

What is the best elastomeric roof coating?

One regionally produced, or produced specifically for the climate where you are living. For example a good coating in phoenix would also be good in Las Vegas since they are similar climates. In Tucson our favorite for the past 4 years or so has been Tucson Rubberized 7000. In prior years we used another well known brand produced in the south west, but then the company was sold and the quality went down. Assuming Tucson Rubberized does not change the formula, drastically alter the price, or sell the company, then we will probably be using them for the foreseeable future.

How long will an elastomeric coated roof last?

In most cases usually three to six years for the coating itself and indefinitely on the base layers. There are a tremendous number of variables from roof design, drainage, tree and plant debris, quality of roof coating, if coating was watered down when applied, and how well was any patching done.

Do elastomeric coatings last as long as advertised?

No, the manufacturers of elastomeric roof coatings use ASTM standards and testing methods which produce artificially high, but comparable, years-of-service numbers. Think MPG numbers on car ads. The different models were tested in the same manner, and the good news is the advertised lifetime of the coating can be used to compare it to others to get an idea of relative quality.

Why is an elastomeric roof coating sometimes referred to as a “throw away” coating?

Elastomeric coatings go on thick, and then the sun and air starts to oxidize the surface. (Coating oxidation is similar to rusting, but it’s white instead of orange / brown seen on metal). A microscopically thin layer of oxidized coating then washes off when it rains. This is the white baby powdery material occasionally seen on concrete around a home with a cool coated roof. The oxidation process starts when the coating is applied and continues until all the coating is oxidized and washed off years later. Usually it takes about six years for a significant portion of a premium coating to oxidize away. When new coatings are applied, the process starts all over again.

Does the aging process on Elastomeric Coatings accelerate in the last year of the coatings life?

Yes. Over the years we’ve noticed fairly consistently roofs we believed had a year or so of life left in the coating actually lasted closer to six months. For some unidentified reason near the end of the lifecycle of the coating things seem to go downhill faster.

Does the entire elastomeric coated roof go bad at the same time, or over time does it die in spots?

The vast majority of the time the coating will start to go bad in specific areas first. Seams in the base layers (which move when heated by the sun), ponding areas, and edges of drains (usually called Scuppers) most likely need touch up work years before an entire roof needs to be re-coated.

What happens if the coating wears out, and nothing is done to the roof?

Its fairly common for homeowners to let the roof age out, and then start to leak prior to calling to get a quote. When the coating has died, the next step in the aging process is for the base layer to start failing also. Back to the skin cancer analogy. First the skin has a problem, then if left untreated it goes to the bones. Allowing the base layer to fail causes the costs to go way up.

How much longer will an elastomeric coated roof last with preventative maintenance?

The average is around three to six years. It’s like fighting skin cancer. Treat it when its little and not expensive, or wait till it’s grown into a big deal and is expensive. For most elastomeric coated roofs we suggest preventative maintenance at the two year mark.

What’s the longest you’ve seen a cool-coated roof last?

Twelve years or so. Classic 1950’s style ranch house with half of roof pitched towards the street and half of the roof pitched towards the back yard. No gutters, no trees around and not much stuff on the roof.

What’s the shortest time frame you’ve seen a cool coated roof go bad?

Six months. Sam Hughes area of Tucson, lots of pine trees dropping large quantities of pine needles into the roof area of a Santa Fe style house. Needles plugged up the drains, kept the roof underwater for months and made the water really acidic. Looked like a two inch deep koi pond, and it didn’t last long.

How much does an elastomeric coated roof cost?

Homeowners doing the work themselves with 2022 costs: Purchasing a reasonably high quality roof coating, for two coats, will cost a homeowner about $400 per thousand square feet, or $0.40 per square foot total coating cost. Price is for purchasing the coating only. Pressure washing, cleaning, patching materials and crack and joint sealer could push homeowner prices up to $0.60 per square foot.

Hiring a licensed contractor who has workers compensation for roofing work (expensive), general liability insurance (expensive) and employees will put a standard patch and two coat re-coat on a roof around $1.00 to $1.15 per square foot. This usually includes a two year warranty against leaks from the contractor, as well as the longer warranty from the material manufacturer.

How many square feet does a gallon of typical Elastomeric Roof Coating cover?

Most roof coatings are intended by the manufacturer to be applied at a rate of one hundred square feet per gallon, per coat. With a roller or a brush its pretty difficult to get it on any thicker than this per coat.

How much does preventative maintenance cost for elastomeric roofs?

For the past 10 years we’ve charged $150 for touch up work at an existing client’s home. Usually this is an hour’s worth of work and about $20 worth of material.

How much is preventative maintenance if I’m not a pre-existing client?

For the past ten years our standard minimum cost has been $599, and it is usually two employees working for a few hours. This is the same price we charge for emergency patching. Prior to submitting a quote for $599, we typically also provide a quote for cleaning and recoating the entire roof. The smaller the roof the more likely recoating it entirely will be the best option financially.

What determines the quality of an elastomeric roof coating?

The quantity and quality of the various plastics and rubbers, thickening agents and suspension materials used to produce an elastomeric are a large portion, but not all, of what determines the quality of an applied roof coating. Two other large factors are how the surface was prepped and the environmental conditions when it was applied.

To reasonably access job quality over a period of time, Homeowners should also consider other factors such as response time to problems, the contractors likelihood of still being in business and available to respond at some future point, how well prep work was done, the contractors experience level for dealing with odd situations on the roof, and obviously value for the money paid.

Is Henry’s Roof Elastomeric Roof Coating good quality?

If you live in extreme environments like Tucson, Phoenix or Las Vegas then No. If you are using the product in moderate environments then maybe. We are based in Tucson and from experience I can only speak about roof coatings aging in hot, low humidity, high temperature environments. In this environment the best coatings have been manufactured specifically for these conditions, instead of being the most average so they work in the desert and also in places (cold and wet) like seattle washington.

Do Elastomeric Roof Coatings come with a Warranty?

Most warranties on elastomeric roof coatings are not worth the paper they are written on. Almost no homeowners will do the documented maintenance and touch up work required to keep the warranty current. This is one reason the coatings are advertised as 8-15 years coatings, and yet the most widely known roofing contractors usually offer two year warranties, with touch ups needed thereafter.

Why does one of my elastomeric roof coating quotes offer a 4 year warranty, while the others are all two years?

In the over twenty years I’ve been in business and had the same phone number, I’ve yet to see a roofing company that was around for long offering warranties past two years. The primary reason is a large percentage of the elastomeric roofs need some touchup work two or three years after being recoated. In my opinion it’s unethical to sell a service without informing the client it will need touchup work.

Can you install elastomeric roof coating yourself, or do you need a contractor to apply it for you?

As a roof coating contractor, we gladly talk people through the process when they ask us. If you can clean the roof and get the five gallon buckets, weighing around seventy five pounds apiece, safely up onto a roof then you could probably apply it. Its hard and dirty work, but not terribly complicated. The coating will not wash out of clothes, and usually a sacrificial pair of jeans and shirt are also needed.

Warmer weather warning: When its nice outside, the reflection from the coating will easily make it feel twenty degrees hotter than it actually is. So when its actually hot outside, its likely warm enough on the roof to get sick from the heat. And a bit of trivia to go along with this. So much sunlight reflects upwards on an elastomeric coated roof its common for roof coating employees to get a tan through their shirts over time.

Is there a maximum recommended age for someone to apply roof coating?

Yes. 60 years old and in great health, or younger if not in great health. In the over twenty years we’ve been in business I’ve talked to about twelve homeowners who have fallen off of a ladder while doing roofing work. Common denominator: Sixty years old or older for at least 10 of the 12. My belief is as we get older and our hearing starts to decline, our balance also gets worse. Don’t work and save money most of your life only to blow it by falling off a ladder when you retire or are near retiring. It’s a bad business decision to take the risk if you can afford to pay a professional to take it for you.

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Scupper Leaks


Scupper Repair & Replacement

A Scupper is a drain off of a roof through a wall which rainwater water flows through as it exits a roof.

Scupper problems are a primary reason why as a contractor I can afford a nice house. In other words they are fairly common, and in some cases can be fairly expensive to repair.

There are multiple reasons why scuppers seem to be a magnet for roofing problems. Fast low quality construction, an architect’s failure to understand installation liability, and the sheer number of materials concentrated in one area which all expand and contract in the heat at different rates. Differential expansion. Basically a perfect storm of problems in some situations.

You’re going to need a coffee or a beer before reading on, as there is quite a bit here.

Low quality construction. The lowest bid contractors are used to construct most track homes. One hundred dollars saved per home on one thousand homes turns into big money. So the roofing installation crews are banging out work as fast as they can. If a few less nails or screws are used than was necessary, then the entire drain (metal scupper assembly) is moving around some. It might only be 1/16 of an inch, but it matters, and it can become a headache for years to come.

In the over twenty years we’ve been patching scuppers in Tucson and Southern Arizona, the same design mistakes have popped up over and over. I joke with my employees that one day a crazy man (me) is going to kick down the door at the UofA Architecture school and be dragged off by campus police as he is screaming about lowering the scuppers. It will make the news and he will sound crazy, but he isn’t.

When drawing plans its easy to write on them that the scuppers are to be a half an inch lower than the level of the roof. That doesn’t mean when the framers and roof crews are flying through the new builds that a little detail on the plans will be followed. In my opinion the scupper and drain area should be INCHES lower than the rest of the roof. This would cost more as the framing contractor would actually have to build the area around each scupper differently than the remainder of the wall, and the roof crew would then install the scupper in the lower area. There is a long term cost benefit, but not a short term one.

The third reason is CYA, or cover your rear, from the installation roofing contractors point of view. When the scuppers are installed on a new build, the roofing contractor knows the scuppers are prone to leaking and will usually have the roofing crews put a little extra material (tar or sealer) around the scuppers as they are installed. This extra material is a cheap guarantee against scupper movement cracks, but it also raises the bottom of the drain upwards. Think about drawing a circle inside of a circle. Each new circle you draw is smaller than the previous one, but the bottom of each circle is also higher than the one before it. Adding more material to the scupper in effect raises the ground level of the bottom of the scupper, and creates a dam in front of it. If a little material was used to seal the scupper, no water would get stuck sitting in front of it. When a lot of material is used, it creates a dam. Years down the road, the dam is still there holding water, and now the scupper and the material under it is old and has moved a lot from heat cycling. It’s a recipe for leaks.

  • Scupper in Good Shape

    Scupper in Good Shape

    This is pretty rare.

  • Smooth Stucco Scupper Repair

    Smooth Stucco Cracks Around Scuppers

    Smooth stucco is prone to cracking.  Corners on windows, doors and scuppers are prone to cracking.  Combine the two of them and it’s almost a guarantee there will be cracking in the corners of smooth stucco scuppers.  The problem with these is if its an area where people can see it, the repair will scar and be ugly.  The only way to lower the visibality of the patches and caulk is to paint the wall.  The Stucco Patching section of this web site has quite a bit of information on this topic.

  • Leaking Around Scupper

    Leaking Around Scupper

    A building maintenance man did some roof coating and in general did a pretty good job. He apparently didn’t know to seal up the outside of the scupper too. When I get a call about a leak only occasionally happening during a rain this usually means the hole is up a few centimeters off of the flat portion of the roof.

  • Holes Inside Scupper

    Fairly common problem. All of the different materials; plywood, tin, tar paper, tar, cool coating and fiber tape are each expanding and contracting at different speeds with the daily heat cycle. Eventually gasses in the tar work their way out and now there’s a leak.

  • Smooth Stucco Scupper Repair

    Gutter Boxes

    Another one with an above average difficulty level. The caulk has probably failed under neath the scupper and the water is running into the wall. If this is the case the only way to get to them is to take off the gutter box. The adobe frequently falls apart when this happens and makes for more work. Another way of saying this is we have to charge more to repair these since they take longer than most other repairs.

  • Affordable Parapet Repair

    Wall Leak

    This is not a roof leak or a scupper leak, the crack is near the srupper and water is coming in through the wall.

  • Leak at Base of Scupper

    Common problem. In this case gas bubbles came out of tar and now water can get it.

  • Canon Scupper Repair

    Cannon Scuppers

    10 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. “Cannon Scupper” is our term for them. It means a long scupper and you can’t get your hand into it. In this case the leak is at the end which is good. The area marked in red needs to be caulked. The water is running back up the clay pipe after exiting the metal insert.

  • Smooth Stucco Scupper Repair

    Cracks around Scupper

    Common problem. Caused by heat cycles and age.

  • Small Elevated Hole at Scupper

    This will leak with big rains but not small ones since the water level only gets up to the leak during big rains.

  • Roof Adhesion Issue

    Mesh Lifting

    The patching mesh was not sufficiently coated with roof coating and water can get in under it.

  • Roof Ponding by Scupper

    Debris At Scupper

    The debris hasn’t turned into a problem yet. Sometimes debris clogging the scupper causes huge problems. More frequently it causes accelerated aging at the scupper since the leaves and dirt hold water. The roof coating needs to dry out between rains or it gets soft and quits working – like skin that’s been in the bath tub too long.

  • Stuff Inside Scupper

    Grr. Most all building trades have something other trades do that’s wrong and irritating. Here’s an example. Scuppers were not meant to be doors ways for cables and pipes. Now that its done, the correct way to do roof work around this pipe is to cut it off, do the roof work, and then have the AC guys reinstall it after the roof work is complete and cured out. Most homeowners just want us to work around it. We can, but since the pipe is sitting in our material it knocks the longevity of the new coating down some.

  • Large Roof Ponding

    Pond At Scupper

    This pond is actually “great” by Tucson standards. If they are small – say a square foot or so, they can dry out between rains. If they get bigger then they hold the water too long and make problems.

  • Smooth Stucco Scupper Repair

    Scupper WAY To Small.

    Not much can be done with these. Depending on the build of the house, the wall / roof can be cut open and a larger scupper installed. This is outside our scope of work.

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Split Roof Seams


What Causes Roof Seams to Come Apart?

The main causes for roof seams coming apart usually include:

  • Old age
  • Damage from the sun breaking down the adhesive
  • Water freezing and expanding beneath your seams
  • Incorrect Installation

What do split roof seams look like?

Shown below are multiple photos of split roof seams.

  • Roof Seam Example

    The seams failed first because there was more movement there and it broke down the coating faster.

  • Split Roof Seam

    Roof is in great shape, but here is a split.

  • Split Seam Close Up

    Close up of the above image.

  • Corner Roof Split Seam

    Notice the cracks are in straight lines. This means the material under it caused the cracks along the edge of the sheets.

  • Roof Split Seam Around AC Unit

    A roof a client asked me to look at. They did a fine job of patching this themselves.

  • Lifting Roof Split Seam

    A rolled roof, which has not been cool coated year. Here is a seam that’s lifting.

  • Split Seam on Roof

    Another straight line crack through the silver coating. As a side note the silver is more like oil based paint and not really a rubberized coating. It holds up fairly well but cracks easier than cool coating because it goes on thinner and stretches less. Its also typically over 150 degrees in the summer sun.

  • Roof Split Seam in Cool Coating

    Another straight line crack. The seam kept moving and finally split the cool coating.

Can you ignore split seams on your roof?

If you ignore split seams on your roof you will more than likely end up with a much bigger issue that will require costly repairs. When you have split seams they should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent water from leaking into the split seams. If this happens the damage can quickly spread and end up resulting in a full roof replacement. 

What should I do if I notice split seams?

If you notice split seams in your roof give us a call right away! Although some homeowners can repair split seams themselves, we’re happy to provide you with a free professional consultation and a quote to repair the seams and recoat your roof. 

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Choosing Paint Colors for Your Tucson Home


Welcome to the Color Selection of the AA Brite 24/7 web page. Here you will find recent information on how to select colors for interior painting of your home or business. As you are aware color selection can range from following simple rules to being complex. One can even spend four years studying it at a college to get a degree. Obviously this web page will not be the four year version of color selection, but it will illustrate the basics as well as provide alternate paths to aquire great colors.

Paint Color Wheel

The photo above is of a Dunn Edwards fan deck which has been opened up and fanned out. Typically there would only be one or a few pages sticking out at any given time. There are over 1,000 colors shown in this particular fan deck. The photo below is a section on understanding color, using a page from this fan deck as an example.

Understanding Coloring – Per Page
The image below shows a fairly popular page out of the fan deck. I’ve numbered the colors from 1 to 7 to aid in explaining how these colors were formulated. Color #1 Tea Biscuit is made by taking raw uncolored paint called “base” and adding some tint to it. The person at the store mixing the paint will look up this color in the computer and add a certain number of ounces of colored tint to this base to get this color. Color #2 is made with the same color tint, but a little more of it is put into the raw paint. Colors 3 through 7 are made by adding more and more of the same color tint. Color #7 is the closest to the actual color of the tint being put into the raw paint.

Paint Color Card

So for conversational purposes, paint in color #1 was made by adding a few drops of tint to the raw paint. Color #7 used the same color tint but took a whole lot of it. In other words do you like your chocolate milk almost white, medium or do you take it as syrup with a drop of milk added? It’s the same with paint, and it goes from light color to progressively darker on each page of the fan deck.

Why does staying on the same page matter?

Great question, and there is a good answer. If you are a genius with color or “color stupid” (no offense meant) you can’t go wrong with painting your house with colors from this method, even if you use a different page from the fan deck, so long as all colors are chosen on the same page. They all go together because in a way they are all the same color. Any combination of colors from one through seven will coordinate. For example color #1 could be used on the ceiling, color #3 on the walls, and an accent wall could be #6. This method of matching paint colors is easy and hassle free. Plus you needn’t be anxious about what others might say regarding colors being compatible or not, as they are coordinated through the use of one tint.

What colors should I pick?

Now we are getting into the more difficult questions, but there are still guideposts. In Tucson tans and beiges are popular as they are soft and neutral. Which tan or beige? Interiors with high ceilings and lots of light can handle the darker shades while smaller and darker homes or offices need lighter colored paint. When I do the bid for you I’ll be happy to recommend conservative colors and show you where accent walls can be. If you’re looking for a high end color scheme that coordinates with furniture and uses different colors throughout the house then please read the interior decorator section. They are much more affordable than you might imagine ($100 – $150).

Popular Paint Store Brochures

If you want to pick colors that will not be on the same page of a typical fan deck and you’re not comfortable going it alone, then a safe, inexpensive and popular option is a paint store brochure which has pallets of colors picked by professional decorators. Just find a color pallet you like and rest assured the various colors on the pallet go together even though they are on different pages in the standard fan deck.

Paint Color Brochure

The section circled in the photo is from a Dunn Edwards brochure called “Spanish Mediterranean”. This brochure is popular and has good colors in it for Tucson. If you like the look of one of the twelve homes in the brochure then you have your three colors. Yes, this is an exterior brochure but I’ve circled a popular choice for interiors as an example of how it works.

Paint Color Brochure

Pick one of the four sections and you have your three colors.

Don’t trust your computer monitor

You probably know this, but don’t trust any colors you see on your computer monitor. Every monitor looks different. The above colors might look great on one monitor and terrible on the next. The right way is to look at the brochure in person and then get it sampled. The photos were included to aid your understanding of how the process works, not to be technically accurate representations of the paint colors.

Accent Walls

Accent walls are typically darker in color. The safe way to do it is to paint, for example, a lighter color such as #2 on the walls and then use a darker color off of the same page in the fan deck like #6 or #7 for the accent. It’s a certainty they will look great together if done this way. If you choose to pick an accent color from a different page of the fan deck then the most popular colors are reds and dark reds. They are elegant and really pop, and a shade of red is what my wife and the decorator decided on together for our home. A nicely decorated home with a red accent wall looks great.

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The 6 Most Popular Types of Stucco Finishes


AA Brite 24/7 is located in Tucson, Arizona, and we put local exterior stucco into one of six categories:

The six most common types of exterior stucco include:

  1. Smooth Stucco Texture
  2. Sanded Stucco Texture
  3. Sprayed Cement Stucco
  4. Spanish Lace Stucco
  5. Tex Coating Stucco
  6. Synthetic Sprayed Stucco

Variations Within the Categories

Within each of these categories, there will be quite a bit of variation in workmanship, which affects the look and also the likelihood that patches can be applied without looking like patches. As another contractor I know says, “Great original stucco workmanship is easy to patch and paint; poor workmanship is a pain forever more.”

1) Smooth Stucco Texture

Advantages: Considered the most elegant looking by many people

Disadvantages: The walls almost always end up wavy with the framing and Styrofoam showing through. Cracks are difficult to repair and highly visible. Many of the cracks will be horizontal or vertical, which means two things. A) The stucco isn’t the problem; something under the stucco is moving and causing the crack. And. B) The crack is coming back.

Smooth Stucco Texture

When well done, smooth stucco is often considered the most elegant looking. The mansion pictured on my main web page and below has a smooth stucco finish, and it looks great. However, smooth stucco comes at a price. The smoother and flatter a surface, the more it shows any defect or variation – and all walls have some waves and variations. Think of a shiny clean glass table with three grains of sand on it. The three grains of sand (read small defects) stand out so much because the table is smooth. It’s also the most difficult stucco to patch. Again think of trying to glue together a broken glass table without having any witness lines or scars, even after it’s painted. Though we repair it, it’s fairly difficult to do.

Smooth Stucco Texture

Well-done original flat stucco will only require minor crack repairs. With well-done stucco, the building will not look like a zebra when the prep work is finished, and it’s ready to be repainted since only a spot here or there was patched. As you slide down further in the quality of the original construction, the building will be more and more striped with repair work. When it looks like a zebra prior to painting, then some of the patchwork is going to show. For cases like this, there is only one other option, and that’s to re-stucco the exterior – which can cost ten to thirty thousand dollars.

[ Updated July 2nd, 2020] For the past ten years or so, I’ve had the smooth stucco information on my website. Since then, I’ve yet to see a single flat stucco house that didn’t have a lot of cracks in it. My opinion has changed some. I believe flat stucco homes can look great from a distance, but I don’t think one can stay looking great to a painter or anyone else with an eye for detail for over a year. They will crack, and if premium paint is used, they will all look wavy. If you have or know of non-cracked flat stucco that’s over a few years old, I’d love to hear from you and to see the house. I could write a book on this topic, but the number of flat stucco homes in my area is under one percent. If you need more information, please call me]

Smooth Stucco Texture Repaired

The photo above is of a home that could have been built better. It appears the foam backing is moving under the stucco, and there are quite a few waves. If a like-new finish is desired, then the correct answer is to entirely re-stucco the home. Since variations and defects are so visible on this stucco type, most builders avoid using it.

When cracks are perfectly horizontal or vertical, this is also an indication the materials under the stucco are moving. Cracks don’t naturally occur in straight lines. Looking at this picture, you can almost count the pieces of plywood and foam under the stucco – based on the way it’s cracking.

2) Sanded Stucco Texture

Advantages: Considered elegant looking and gives the home a soft feel.

Disadvantages: If there are air voids or the texture comes out sharp, it is difficult to patch.

Sanded stucco is much more common than smooth, and it’s a little more forgiving to work with. The texture created by the sand on the wall helps hide any waves or joints by camouflaging them. The key word being “helps.” Though it’s better than smooth from a repair point of view, it is still fairly difficult to patch without scars or spotting. Something working against whoever is doing the patching is the short height of the texture. Sanded stucco repairs are messed up by the inexperienced fairly frequently, with the most common mistake being caulk is applied directly to the crack and then left to dry as is. The resulting lines are called “scars,” and the big ones look terrible! See the Photo below of the homeowner’s repair.

Sanded Stucco Scars

As a side note and according to my better half, when the addition is finished at my home, the existing exterior walls will be finished with a sanded stucco texture. We have adobe block now, and she wants sanded stucco for its soft and elegant look. Stuccoing after the addition is complete will also give the appearance that the house and additions were all built simultaneously. But back to the main topic.

Depending on the quality of the material and the craftsmanship, sanded stucco has a number of different looks.

Sanded Stucco Example

This is as good as it gets. There are almost no air bubbles, and getting the paint to laminate and waterproof the surface is not a problem.

Sanded Stucco Example

The stucco has quite a few open pores, and this is an intermediate-level paint job as a result of the extra work required to minimize the shadowing. Shadowing is when you see darker colors of the open air pockets when looking at the stucco from the side.

Cracked sanded stucco

An older stucco with small grains of sand. Notice how the texture is soft (not pointed or really lumpy). The crack is a minor problem and can be filled in without scarring prior to or during painting. Paint and caulk are similar materials, and by forcing paint down into narrow cracks, they will not return unless there is movement of the stucco.

3) Sprayed Cement Stucco Repair

For conversational purposes “sprayed cement stucco” is only concrete stucco which was left alone after spraying. Its texture could be compared to thousands upon thousands of miniature volcanoes which come to sharp points. This texture can be quickly sprayed on and its biggest advantage is the texture helps hide defects and variations of the concrete blocks it is usually sprayed over.

Advantages: Applies fast. Can be used to blend in new and old construction.

Disadvantages: Sharp texture. Texture varies in height and density over the building. Some patches are easy and some are difficult depending on the texture. Frequently has a lot of air bubbles. Being pure cement it also seems to crack quite a bit easier than stucco which was formulated for the purpose of covering a wall. This texture is usually really sharp and the form of the texture is a result of how thin or thick the concrete was when it was sprayed along with the distance from the wall and the air pressure. Frequently the density and height of the “mini volcanoes” changes significantly over the course of the building. This makes matching the texture difficult, and each repair might require a completely different look. The person doing the patching needs to mimic these “mini volcanoes” as closely as possible by controlling the variables. All of the sprayed concrete stucco homes I’ve seen have been older.

Sprayed Cement Stucco

4) Spanish Lace Stucco

If the stucco texture going on my home was my choice (it’s not), we would use Spanish lace for the numerous reasons shown below instead of picking Sanded.

Advantages: Cracks less than all other kinds. Is the best for hiding defects. Seems to be stronger than other types. A popular stucco for new construction. I don’t know the specific reason why but Spanish Lace is by far the most resistant to cracking. If a sanded and Spanish lace home are next to each other and were built at the same time the Spanish Lace will almost always have considerably less cracking on it after 10 years. I suspect the added depth of the texture makes it stronger, but this is only speculation. Cracks are also more difficult to see in the Spanish lace than in the sanded.

Disadvantages: Not many other than it is not considered to be as elegant looking as sanded or smooth.

Spanish Lace Stucco

Spanish Lace is probably the most common type of stucco in the US for good reasons: 1) Its the easiest stucco to apply. By that I mean its the easiest for the builder to apply while at the same time having happy customers. 2) It can be touched up by less skilled workers. 3) Scaring and variations are less visible 4) It cracks considerably less than the other three types.

Spanish Lace Stucco Close-up

This image of Spanish lace stucco is at a higher magnification. Notice the lack of air bubbles. In my experience this is by far the most durable stucco texture. Its also the easiest to get patchwork to blend in.

Spanish Lace Stucco with Air Bubbles

5) Tex Coating Stucco

Advantages: Applies fast. Can be sprayed on over wood and pipes.

Disadvantages: To my knowledge it hasn’t been used in the past 20 years. It flakes off in large chunks. New patches could eventually fall off since the material it’s applied to was not intended to be stuccoed.

“Tex” is our name for a common, but no longer sold or used elastomeric stuccoing paint with sand in it.

I don’t know what the material was called twenty years ago but the generic terms I’ve heard used in Tucson are “Tough Tex” and “Dex Coat” both of which are currently registered trade names of existing products, so for conversational purposes and to keep myself out of court, from here on this 15 year old sanded sprayed on plastic coating will simply be referred to as “Tex”.

Whatever Tex is or was called years ago, it’s actually an elastomeric material (plastic) similar to roof coating or really thick paint with sand mixed in it. This sandy plastic liquid was quickly sprayed from a special sprayer onto the exterior walls, fascia, trim, pipes and wires of a wood or block home. The texturing process was completed in one day by a painter. The Tex application process was much less intensive and faster than other stucco application methods since the material was more or less a paint, and applied as such. Until it went out of favor 15 or 20 years ago, Tex was put on fast, stuck to everything and looked good when new. Hurray for Tex….. Until you get to the disadvantages.

Tex Coating Stucco Example

A photo of a Tex coated home I was asked to bid on. This is typical of a home with a 20 year old Tex coating on it. At one time it looked great and now its turned into a giant headache for the homeowner.

Tex doesn’t get considerably thinner like paint as it ages, instead as the coating weathers and becomes stiffer and more brittle, it will loose its grip on the surface under it. Then large thick pieces start falling off. Getting a reasonable match of the texture is not terribly difficult.

The biggest short term problem is dealing with where the edge of the new patch meets the old tex. When the painter spreads out the new sanded compound, the plastic becomes double thick on the existing old portions of old tex near the edge of the patch, and “ringworm scars” are easily formed by this small area of double thick patch. These patches range from horrible looking to slightly noticeable depending on many variables.

The skill and patience of the person doing the patch has the largest effect how the patch looks when complete. In one exceptionally rare case I had a 70 year old woman show me a patch she did and it took me almost a minute to see the witness line. She worked in her spare time on the patch the size of a t-shirt. She told me it took her 30 hours to get the edges perfect. This shows it can be done if a person is willing to put the necessary man hours into it or to pay someone to do it. Most Tex patch jobs we’ve completed were actually “paint jobs” on rental homes, and patching the tex was secondary. Our rates have ranged from $1,200 to $4,000 on these jobs. The goal – so far – has always been to get the house patched and painted without spending much larger sums of money.

Most painting contractors shy away from tex repairs because the old tex continues to come off and they don’t want to be responsible for this. We not only repair tex, but we will warranty the work for two years. Before providing a quote I’ll carefully look at the tex and determine what the different avenues are for repair.

The following photos are from a job done almost two years ago. The first two photos were taken at the time we did the job and the last photo was taken recently.

Tex Stucco Repair Before

A tex coated home with the first two patches applied. Notice the scars near the pieces of blue tape. These are previous repairs and the caulk lines are visibly raised up making scars.

Tex Stucco Repair After

During the repair process. As you can see over 19 different spots were patched. This is typical with Tex coats.

The job is finished and some of the patch work is visible. I wish the patches were not visible at all, but the ringworm scarring talked about earlier is happening here. The ringworm scars could be removed with LARGE amounts of additional labor. The problem is for the number of scars needing to be patched it is cheaper and much more cost effective to re-stucco the home than it is to patch each spot perfectly.

In this case the owner wanted his home to look as good as possible for the least amount of money. Which translates into basic Tex patching and painting. Re-stuccoing this small home would cost approximately $10,000, plus the cost of priming and painting. We patched all around the home and painted it for about $1500. In other words – Patch and paint $1500 or Re-stucco and paint $11,500. Whats important to me as the owner is you as the client understand what the job will look like when we are finished BEFORE we start. If we are in agreement prior to starting then life is good for both of us.

6) Synthetic Sprayed Stucco

Advantages: Looks great and goes on fast. Is newer method.

Disadvantages: The very few that I’ve seen have lots of air bubbles when looked at closely, and when patched have to be painted four times. This is a close up view. From a distance it looks great and non-contractors wouldn’t normally notice the bubbles.

To my knowledge synthetic sprayed stuccos are produced by several different manufacturers. We don’t put it on new, so I’m unaware of all of the different properties or why certain types are used.

With regards to painting and patching, synthetic sprayed on stucco has an interesting set of characteristics.

Synthetic Sprayed Stucco

Sad to say, but most new homes are painted with what we call a “piss coat” and with synthetic stucco like the kind shown here that’s a big deal. When a thin coat of paint is put on the stucco, it doesn’t fill up the pores or air voids. When stucco in this condition is patched, most of the voids are filled in and the texture looks different. The areas with a lot of pores and air voids will look darker and rougher since the shadows from the “caves” are showing.

If a area of sprayed on synthetic stucco is patched and painted it will look completely different than the surrounding area.

Raw versus Patched Stucco

Synthetic stucco can be patched and made to look nice, doing so requires painting the entire home with a heavy coat of paint after the patching is complete. Painting after patching eliminates the two looks on one home shown in the photo above.

Once a home has been re-painted and most of the pores are filled in, future patching is much easier to do.

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Painting in Desert Heat During the Summer


Painting in the Desert Heat During the Summer

Several times a month we receive calls from clients of ours or other contractors who are concerned about the extreme heat and how this will affect the paint as its applied.

The short answer is the heat is not a problem if the paint stays wet enough long enough for the area touching it to be painted while still wet.

In other words the paint is supposed to be applied as a wet film instead of being applied in two foot wide stripes which dry before more paint is added.

A small amount of water added to the paint will keep it we long enough for an area to be painted as one film instead of multiple dry stripes.

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The 12 Most Common Roof Problems in Tucson


The Flat Roof Repair and Coating Page explains the patching and coating process in detail. The page your on now and the Flat Roof Repair and Coating page together tell you what the roofs are, how they work, what their problems are and how they are repaired and coated.
I personally own a house with a flat cool coated roof, and my office building in my back yard also has a flat roof on it. So not only do I work on them I also live with them. According to some people this is a great thing and others think its terrible. More on that later.

First of all, the term “flat roof” is somewhat misleading. Many people think of “flat” as being the same thing as level.

What is a Flat Roof?

A flat roof should ALWAYS have a little bit of slant to allow for water-drain off. Think of a flat pool table where the balls always roll to one end because the table is not level. At first glance many flat roofs will appear to be level, but upon closer inspection it can be seen they are built with a slight rise for drainage. This is important to avoid the confusion I often see with regards to clients who don’t know what to call their style of roof. Understanding this is important to avoid the confusion clients often experience in trying to describe their style of roof.

  • Flat Level Roof

  • Flat Roof with Elevation

What is a Pitched Roof?

Pitched Roof

A pitched roof is typically considered to be a shingle or tile roof. The easiest way to communicate what your roof type is to call it one of the three: “Flat, Shingle or Tile”. The types of problems presented below might give some the impression that flat roofs are not desirable. In the Southwest and other arid climates, flat roofs are extremely desirable for several reasons which are illustrated below.

Why would I want a Flat Roof?

I grew up in the Midwest. As such I lived in an area with lots of snow and cold winters. Shingle roofs were common and due to the weather the roofs needed to be replaced every 15 years or so. It was commonly known and expected. Every few years or so the region would experience severe storms or even small tornadoes. It was normal for people to replace a few missing or damaged shingles. In general the roofs held up well and drained off the water like they were supposed to.

Fast forward twenty years. I, Robert Anderson am now living in Arizona! There are not many houses with shingle roofs. Why? Shingle roofs soak up a TREMENDOUS amount of heat and turn a Tucson attic into an oven in the summer time. This is NOT energy efficient and people living in the southwest figured this out a long time ago.

A reflective roof coating was the answer THEN and NOW. Back then the reflective coating was silver. The logic was to have the roof act like a mirror and reflect the heat. This was superior to shingles, however not by much. The silver coating reflected some of the visible light but the UV light was still soaked up in the coating and the roof heated up significantly. The heat then shortened the life of the roofing materials.

As technology and knowledge grew, white-cool coating became the solution. This coating reflected a great deal more of the UV and when clean would stay within a few degrees of the air temperature. If it was 115 degrees outside the clean white roof would be 115 degrees. NOW people were excited! I have measured this (the heat not the excitement) personally. So the figures I use above are not based on theory but my actual experience. A shingle roof easily reaches 150 degrees under hot the summer sun. An old style silver roof would frequently hit 140 degrees whereas a cool-coated white roof would be more like 115 degrees. When the roof on a 2,000 square foot house is reduced in temperature by 25 degrees for months at a time there is going to be significant savings on the air conditioner electric bill.

From a maintenance point of view there are many advantages to owning a cool-coated roof. First of all finding a leak on a shingle or tile roof can be troublesome and time consuming. Tile roof leak problems are typically dealt with on a larger scale. If the corner is leaking it is common for forty square feet of tile to be removed to identify the problem. Shingle roofs typically leak at the edges or where two roof sections come together and water drains in a “V” shaped section. When the shingles are replaced they typically do not match and the roof looks patched. The choice is easy. Live in a house with a white cool coated flat roof. If there is an issue I can almost always see where it is and how to fix it. Annual inspections are also simple and quick. It is much more cost effective and easy to repair.

What are the advantages of White Cool Coated Roofs?

White cool coated roofs have significant advantages. Having worked on the three different types of roofs here in Tucson I personally chose to purchase a home with a flat roof. My choice was intentional.

Now we have reviewed the positive aspects of flat roofs, but you are probably not viewing this page because your roof is in great shape but because you have a problem. Shown below various problems associated with flat roofs.

Common Flat Roof Problems

  • Roof Sores

    Roof Sores

    The most common flat cool coated roof problem. This happens with age. Heat from the sun causes the roof to expand during the day, and at night as the roof cools it shrinks. This is called a heat cycle. Over the years not only is the roof experiencing hundreds of heat cycles, the coating is also slowly drying out and getting brittle. So basically the coating is always moving and its getting dry and more brittle. Eventually it cracks and splits.

  • Roof Issues Scupper Leaks

    Scupper Leaks

    The most common problem we get called for. Sores are more common than scupper leaks, but don’t typically let a lot of water into the house in a short period of time. A leaky scupper is like having a crack on your bath tub drain, and the water is leaking onto your bathroom floor. It gets your attention. Two reasons why scupper leaks are such a big deal. First they are usually the lowest point on your roof so they have the maximum amount of water passing over them. Second, they are built with at least 4 different kinds of material and each material expands and contracts at a different speed as it goes through the daily heat cycle from the sun. All these different materials moving at different speeds cause them to crack sooner than the rest of the roof. Link to Scupper Page where there is 15 or so more pictures of scupper issues.

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  • Roof Issues Split Seams

    Split Seams

    Another common problem I see several times a week are split seams. Sores are when the material drys out and cracks in random areas. Splits along the seams occur for the same reasons as sores, which are drying of the coating combined with physical movement. The difference being there is typically ALOT more movement at the edge of the material (seams) and the movement is in the same spot every day. A thick coating well applied will typically develop splits at the seams before it starts to get sores. The remedy for this is to put fiber tape and patch compound on it prior to re-coating.

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  • Roof Issues Ponding

    Roof Ponding

    The most difficult of all flat roof problems is ponding. Ponding is a result of a poor design or roof installation. The drain is supposed to be lower than the rest of the roof, not an inch higher. Unfortunately this is a fairly common problem in Tucson. Anti-ponding material (filler) can be used; however, if too much is used, a new pond forms behind it. Areas with ponding age faster than other parts of the roof. In general, we are very conservative when we treat areas with anti-ponding material since using a too much, even a little too much compound, will cause a new pond to form.

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  • Roof Issues Wrinkling

    Roof Wrinkles

    Wrinkles are not as common as sores, split seams and ponds but I do see them about once a month. My belief is wrinkles are caused by not enough tar (glue) being used when the tar paper or sheeting was put on top of the plywood roof as the house was built. The tar paper is not supposed to sit on the plywood roof decking , its supposed to be glued to the decking. When not enough tar is used, the paper has some wiggle room.

    For lack of a better way of explaining this, the loose area now accepts any growth in the paper. I may not know the exact reasons for what causes it, but there are several basic options once wrinkles have happened. In most cases from a cost benefit point of view ripping off the roof and getting a new one installed is overkill. There are several other options. The first, if the wrinkles are not cracking down the center is to leave them alone. If the underlying paper or fabric is thick and in good shape the wrinkles can be there for years without causing issues. This is assuming no one is stepping on them as this will cause them to crack. The second choice is to put fiber tape or polyester fabric on the wrinkles along with patch compound and coating. Lastly the wrinkles can be cut out and new fabric or papers patches can then be put on them along with cool coating. I used to believe the best method was to cut them out and fabric over them. Years of experience have caused me to change my mind. Cutting them out and patching is more work than it sounds like, i.e. more expensive than necessary. I now believe the most cost effective way for homeowners to deal with them is to run a piece of fiber tape down the ridgeline (highest spot) of the wrinkle and to coat over it with cool coat. I could write quite a bit more about wrinkles but its easiest to say its basically a manufacturing defect which you’re dealing with after the fact so there are no great answers.

  • Roof Issues Blistering

    Roof Blistering

    Blistering is not nearly as common as it used to be because of the advances in roof-coating materials. One cause is that the roof was damp when the coating applied. The newer formulations of coatings are not nearly as susceptible to this problem. If a roof has not shown any problems for years and then starts to blister, and that possible reason is that water is somehow getting into the roof. The blister is created by water vapor as it tries to evaporate. If blisters are grouped together in a specific area, then there is probably a leak nearby. A blister will eventually break open after a number of years of weathering.

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  • Roof Issues Flashing Lifting

    Flashing Lifting

    Flashing Lifting is also caused by inferior workmanship. A metal flashing needs to have fiber tape put on it at the joint or it will always crack out. This particular photo is one of the worst examples of workmanship I have seen in recent years.

  • Roof Problems Emulsifier Issues

    Emulsifier Issues

    Emulsifier is a roofing product that dries oil out of the top layer of tar so water based coatings will stick to it. Was the General Contractor or Roofer in a hurry when the house was built? If so, there are emulsifier issues. Ideally, the contractor or roofer will allow two weeks to pass before putting the emulsifier on the tar, and then the cool coating over it. Obviously, if no emulsifier was used on top of the new tar, the cool coat failed to stick to the roof. Ironically, if unemulsified tar underneath the cool coating is exposed to the sun and elements for a year or more, the oils in the tar will dry out naturally. The area can then be patched or cool coated without first emulsifying it and waiting the two weeks for a cure out. Poor construction practices are a major cause of roof coating failure.

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  • Roof Issues Parapet Leakage

    Parapet Leakage

     Parapet leakage is sometimes a natural part of the aging process and other times it is a construction quality issue. Almost all of the homes in this particular subdivision have these large (and much larger) cracks. The photo to the right shows a construction defect; but, the good news is it can be repaired.     There is a large page on this site with lots of information regarding parapet patching, repairs and coating.

  • Roof Issues Leaking Flashing

    Leaking Flashing

    Aging and movement will cause leaks here over time. They can be easily sealed.

  • Roof Issues Cracked Penetrations

    Cracked Penetrations (vent pipes)

    There is no way to prevent vent pipes from cracking the roof coating. The roof expands during the day from heating up in the sun, and the vent pipes do not move, causing a crack to develop in the sealant. Fiber tape and sealer over the crack will prevent leaking for approximately four to seven years.

  • Roof Issues Leaking Skylights

    Leaking Skylights

    The skylight shown is not exactly a glamorous picture but you get the idea. Renee is patching a leaking skylight. This was a patch only and not a full roof re-coat. There are a couple of places where skylights typically start to leak. These problems are not usually difficult to repair for the trained eye. As a side note. Notice the homeowner applied OLD gray silicon caulk around the edge of the plastic domed lens. From a professional point of view this is a no-no as the water is supposed to weep around the edge of the metal frame and drip out the bottom.

If caught in time, flat roof repairs can be relatively inexpensive and do not always require a re-coat. We at AA Brite 24/7 recommend that you have your flat roof inspected every four (4) years by a trained professional. We are always available to serve your flat roof repair and emergency repair needs. A little bit of preventative maintenance goes a long way.

If you haven’t looked at it yet you are now prepped for the Flat Roof Repair and Coating page

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